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Useful Home Improvement Tips:

Winter Checklist
Yes, it’s that time of year again! As much as we’d like to forget about having to get our homes ready for winter, there are a few things that we need to take care of before it’s too late. Now’s a great time to spend a little time and make sure your home is ready to take on another winter. It’s much better to take care of it now than to wait until later when it’s cold, wet and ugly outside. Following is a checklist of things that you may find handy to help you make sure you haven’t forgot anything important.

Furnace

- Schedule the annual check up and maintenance for your furnace in the summer or early fall so that your furnace will be ready to go when the temperature starts to dip.

- Make sure you have a clean filter and that you have a supply of replacement filters on hand. Dirty filters reduce airflow and make your furnace work much harder and less efficiently. You should change your filters at least four times a year and if you live in a cold climate where you furnace is working much harder, you may want to change them once a month. Replacement filters are inexpensive and well worth the investment. If you have the type of filter that can be cleaned and reused, mark down a date on your calendar to remind you that it’s time to clean it again.

- If you have an old standard efficiency furnace, consider installing a new high-efficiency furnace. Check for any rebates that may be available.

- Inspect the area around your furnace and make sure that there are no combustible materials stored nearby. Do not store bleach or cleaning products near the furnace.

- Tip: Make use of passive solar heating during sunny days. Open the drapes on south facing windows to let the sun in and then close them at night to retain the heat as much as possible. If you have a large expanse of window glass that doesn’t receive direct sunlight, keep the drapes closed.

- Tip: Use your energy efficient natural gas fireplace like a zone heater. Turn down the thermostat for the rest of the house and let the fireplace keep you warm in the room you are in. There’s no need to keep the temperature all the way up in the rest of the house if your not going to be there to enjoy it.

Fireplaces

- If you have a wood-burning fireplace, get your chimney cleaned to ensure that you don’t get a build up of creosote in the chimney. The build up of creosote is a common cause of chimney fires.

- Consider replacing your wood-burning fireplace with an energy efficient natural gas fireplace. No more wood and no more spiders.

- If you have a natural gas fireplace, take advantage of the service call when your gas fitter is doing your annual furnace maintenance to get him to inspect your natural gas fireplaces, hot water tank and any other natural gas appliances. He should check the venting for all your appliances too!

Insulation

- Make sure you have adequate insulation. Most homes will benefit from an increase in the insulation in the attic. Additional insulation will help make your home more energy efficient and comfortable in the winter and cooler in the summer.

- You may wish to have your home tested for draft proofing. Properly trained contractors can perform a door pressure test on your home to determine how much heat you are loosing to drafts. You’d be surprised to find out how much warm air you might be losing through your non-insulated electrical outlets (on outside walls, etc.) These drafts can be remedied through the use of weatherstripping, caulking and insulation.

- If your heating ducts run through a non-insulated area of the home such as the attic or crawl space, now is the time to insulate them to prevent unnecessary heat loss. Same goes for your hot water supply piping.

Gutter and Downspouts

- Inspect and clean your gutters

- Repair any leaks

- Consider installing gutter guards to keep leaves and debris from clogging up your gutters over the rainy season and winter. If it’s time to replace your gutters and your home is under a canopy of trees, consider new gutters that are designed to keep out needles and leaves and do not require cleaning.

- Make sure that your gutter spouts direct the water away from your foundation.

Roof and Chimney

- Check that ridge vents are not obstructed.

- Check and repair or replace any missing, cracked, curled, broken or missing shingles.

- Check all flashings

- Consider a screen-chimney cap to prevent bird nests or other critters from entering your chimney.

- Inspect your chimneys and vents to make sure that nothing has obstructed them over the summer. It is not uncommon for birds or squirrels to nest in chimneys. Your licensed gas fitter can check your venting when he does the annual maintenance on your heating system.

Dryer Vents

- At least once a year, make a point to check to make sure that the dryer vent hasn’t become clogged with lint. Often, the screws holding the ducts together will trap lint that builds up over time. A build up of lint is one of the more common causes of house fires. This is a good time to clean up any lint that is under and around your dryer.

Windows and Doors

- Check every window (attic and basement too) for cracks or broken glass.

- Check around each window and door for drafts. Replace weather stripping and/or caulk as required.

- Clean and install your winter storm windows. If you have old single-paned windows, consider replacing them with new, energy efficient double or triple paned windows that are Low E Squared and Argon filled between the panes of glass for more insulating value. New windows will help reduce condensation problems, drafts, outside noise and will add more curb appeal to your home.

Siding

- Check around piped, dryer vents or other places that cold air might be able to enter your home. Caulk as r
required.

- Repair or replace any loose or broken siding.

Decks, Patios and Porches

- Apply an extra coat of waterproof sealer to wooden decks and porches.

- Inspect supports and foundations for separation or rot.

- Put your outdoor furniture and planters into storage as required.

- Put away your barbeque and make sure you turn off the natural gas or cap the propane tank and store it in a safe place.

- Check your light bulbs and reset any timers to allow for earlier darkness in the fall and winter.

Outdoor Plumbing

- Turn off and drain your lawn sprinkler system

- Drain and store your garden hoses

- Turn off and drain outside faucets

Garage

- Winterize lawn equipment

- Seal concrete to prevent damage from the salt your car brings in

- Find your snow shovel and put it in a handy spot for that first snowfall.

Yard

- Apply lime and winter fertilizer to your lawn

- When you mow your grass for the last time, try to keep matting of the grass to a minimum

- Rake any remaining leaves

- If you live in an area that gets a lot of snow, stake driveway sides to mark it for the snow blower or snow plow.

Pools

- Drain Filter

- Drain pump

- Drain lines

- Drain and winterize heater

- Cover pool and secure the cover against wind

- If temperatures dip low in your area, consider using RV anti-freeze to protect your pump and any areas with standing water.

Garden

- Remove annuals and any dead plants.

- Cover perennials with a layer of mulch.

- Wrap or protect shrubs from snow and winter winds.

- Turn the soil for next year.

- Harvest any late vegetable crops before the first heavy frost.

Your Car

- Check anti-freeze

- Install your winter tires or make sure your all-season tires are still in good shape

- Check the condition of your spare tire

- Check tires and spare for proper inflation

- Check and replace older batteries if necessary

Winter Outings with Your Car

If you make winter trips in your car, consider the following safety items

- A bag of sand or non-clumping cat litter. The extra weight will help with traction and you can use the contents of the bag to spread under slipping tires.

- An ice scraper

- Jumper cables

- Small shovel

- Flares

- A blanket

- Flashlight and fresh batteries

- A gallon of drinking water

- A first-aid kit

- A cell phone

- Some cash for emergencies

- A winter jacket and boots for each passenger

- Some non-perishable food (energy bars, etc)

I know this list looks a bit intimidating but it really doesn’t take all that long to work through it. Divide it up into bite sized portions and work on it as time permits. When winter hits, you’ll be glad that you’re ready and you can sit back and relax while your neighbours are scrambling to catch up.

“It’s Just That Easy!”

Home Made Weed Killer for Patios, Patio Pavers, Driveways, Sidewalks

Mix the following ingredients together:

4 cups (1 Litre) of white vinegar

1/4 cup (50 mL) of table salt

2 tsp (10 mL) of your favorite liquid dish soap

Put this mixture into a spray bottle and spray it on your weeds when it is hot outside.

Remember, this formula really works and is only recommended for driveways, sidewalks and the like. If you spray it onto the weeds in your lawn, you're going to kill the grass too and create a big ugly brown spot.

Summer Tip for Gas Fireplaces

You can prevent wasting energy (in this case, natural gas) by turning off the pilot light on your fireplace during the summer and whenever you're not using it on a regular basis throughout the heating season.

If you are not comfortable re-lighting the pilot light on your fireplace, have your licenced heating contractor re-light it for you when he's there to do your regular furnace maintenance prior to the next heating season. This will give him the opportunity to ensure that your fireplace is working properly too.

Take advantage of his annual visit to ensure that all your natural gas burning appliances are working safely and efficently.

Inspecting your own home

Inspecting Your Own House: Look now, save later.

Professional home inspectors get paid to look for problems. The majority of the house problems found could have been avoided or at least minimized with proper inspection and maintenance. We have put together a short checklist of some of the most common problems encountered during inspections. We hope you find them useful.

CRAWLSPACE

- No access
- Standing water
- Earth floor
- Ventilation not used
- Freeze vulnerable pipes
- No moisture barrier
- Dryer vents into crawlspace

BATHROOMS

- Moisture behind tiles
- Loose toilet
- No GFCI protection
- No or inadequate ventilation

ATTIC

- Rot & insect damage
- No access
- Stained plywood
- Condensation
- Exhaust fan discharge into attic space

BASEMENT

- Inadequate venting
- Water stains
- Uneven insulation
- "Musty" smell
- Drain not working

ROOFING

- Moss accumulation
- Debris around flashings
- Plugged gutters or breakers
- Plugged drains
- Missing shingles
- General deterioration

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

- Overfusing
- Frequent "blown" fuses
- "Flickering" lights
- "Permanent" extension cords
- Miswired outlets
- Open junction boxes

EXTERIOR

- Wood / soil contact
- Slope toward house
- Rot damaged stairs
- Uneven stair risers
- Sidewalk trip hazards
- Garage door reverse mechanism
- No closer on door to house from garage

HEATING SYSTEM

- No gas shutoff access
- Dirty filter
- Blocked combustion air
- Blocked ducts
- out of adjustment

PLUMBING SYSTEM

- No cleanout access
- No drain for the water heater
- No main water shutoff access

Home Security

Today, home security is a concern in all areas of the country, quiet suburbs and busy metropolitan areas alike. You can help secure your home by addressing a few key areas.

Front and back doors should be secured with double cylinder dead bolts. This will help prevent the door from being unlocked from the inside if glass in the door or window next to it is broken.

Note: If you have double cyclinder deadbolts you should leave the key in the cylinder during the night time hours in case an emergency arises and you have to get out of the house quickly. You don't want to have to search for your keys during an emergency.

Windows in doors as well as sidelights next to doors should have security window film applied to stop the smash and grab intruder. Security film is clear, can be installed by the homeowner and can be obtained at most building supply stores. The security film will retain the glass in the frame even though it has been broken – a helpful deterrent.

Lower main floor windows should have window security buttons installed so partially opened windows cannot be lifted out of their tracks. Security buttons can be installed at the top and bottom of windows to give double security.

Basement windows should have security film applied and be double locked with security buttons. Do not pile belongings under windows. They can give a foothold for unwanted entry.
Porch lighting and garage security lighting with motion sensors act as good deterrents illuminating areas of possible entry.

Garden lighting should be attached to a timer shutting them off at a reasonable hour to darken areas of temptation.
Garage doors can be made more secure by adding an automatic garage door opener. Openers give access to only those who have the transmitter and allow entry and closing without having to leave the vehicle. Most models include a lighting timer to allow you to walk from the vehicle to the house entry door before the light goes off.

The outdoor light flasher is a great product in the retail market. The flasher is a switch that will enable you to make all your outdoor lights flash so your home is readily visible for security vehicles, taxis, police fire or ambulance services.

These are all economical ways to secure your home. You can go the extra steps and install security bars, security storm doors or an electronic security system that is monitored around the clock.

Windows and Draftproofing

Is it time to do something about your windows? This is almost always a job for a qualified contractor with the proper equipment. Still, the choice of what to do and what to buy remains your own, and you’ll quickly learn that there is more to windows than glass. With recent improvements in window technology, like the advent of low-emissive coatings, there is more to glass than just glass.

Always consider upgrading your windows before you consider the more expensive task of window replacement. Start by doing a thorough caulking job around the window trim and replacing worn out weather-stripping. This can cut down on uncomfortable drafts that rob your home of heat. Next, you could have interior or exterior storm windows installed. The extra layer of glazing would help reduce air leakage and heat loss.

However, if your present frames are damaged or rotting, window replacement may be the only option. When shopping for windows, ask the following questions:

Do the frames take account of thermal bridging?
Will long-term maintenance be easy and cheap?
How much does glazing enhancement like “low-e” and argon gas glass improve performance?
Are the tested air leakage rates comparable?
Do the windows conform to accepted industry standards?
Are the windows rated Power Smart?

Windows

Most window manufacturers offer several types of glazing. The types vary considerably in insulation value of the window and the likelihood of condensation forming on the glass.
Glazings can be sealed (thermal pane) or unsealed. Sealed glazing units eliminate condensation between glazings.

All windows should be at least double-glazed. If you have difficulty determining the number of glazings in a particular window, hold a light next to the glass and count the reflections, which will correspond to the number of glazings.

Air Space Size & Insulation Value

Glass by itself is not a good insulator. However motionless air between panes of glass improves thermal resistance. (resistance to heat flow)

The width of air space between two panes of glass influences the insulation value of the glazing.

Insulation values are measured in RSI (metric) and R (imperial): the higher the value, the better the material insulates.

Typical double-glazing with air space width of 12mm (1/2”) gives an insulation value for RSI.35 (R2). In comparison, double-glazing with a 6mm (1/4”) air space provides only RSU.26 (R1.5). Avoid glazings with an airspace of less than 10 mm (1/2”) unless the space is filled with argon gas (an inert gas) this enhances the glass to be more energy efficient.

Standard Sealed Units

A standard sealed unit consists of two sheets of glass spaced about 12 mm (1/2”) apart. A desiccant (moisture-removing substance) is included in the edge spacer to absorb moisture and the unit is sealed around the outside edge to prevent air or moisture from entering the air space.

If moist air finds its way into the sealed air space, condensation may form between the glazing. This is usually caused by a faulty sealant and can be corrected only through replacement of the unit.

Before buying, you can determine whether a standard sealed unit is likely to perform well by:

Ensuring that the edge spacer at the perimeter of the glass, or in some cases, the glass itself is etched with IGMAC (Insulated Glass Manufacturers Association of Canada) label. New technology in edge spacers such as Super Edge performs much better and companies using it normally give a better warranty.

Ensuring that the air space between glazings is no less than 12mm (1/2”)

Checking the warranty period. Most manufacturers guarantee sealed units for five years; some offer an extended warranty.

Improved Sealed Units

Not long ago the only way to make standard sealed glass more thermal resistant was to upgrade to triple glazing. Now several new technologies offer improved performance. Prices vary, so shop around for the high efficiency products outlined below.

Standard Triple Glazing

Triple glazing increases the insulation value of a sealed unit by adding extra air space. Both air spaces in a standard triple glazed should be 12mm (1/2”) wide.

Glass Coatings

Low-emissivity (Low-E) coatings increase the insulation value of glazing by reducing radiant heat loss through the glass. They reflect radiant heat emitted by room temperature objects and people. These coatings are invisible (or almost invisible) and a coated double-glazed unit has about the same insulation value as an uncoated triple-glazed unit. The lower the emissivity of a particular unit, the more effective it is at reflecting radiant heat. Glass with Low-E coating should be labeled “Low-E”.

Gas Fill

The insulation value of a sealed unit is greater if an inert gas (argon or krypton) is used to fill the space between the two panes of glass. Argon is less expensive than krypton but the latter is effective in air spaces as narrow as ¼”. If you order gas filled units, make sure the manufacturers label indicates this.

High Performance Triple Glazing

Standard triple glazing has been largely replaced by Low-E double-glazing. However extra high performance glazing is possible using Low-E triple glazing and gas fill. Some manufacturers use plastic film with Low-E coating as the middle glazing to reduce the weight of the unit and increase the amount of solar energy that can pass through glazing.

Improved Edge Seals

Aluminum edge spacers conduct heat rapidly and can substantially decrease a window’s insulation value.

Non-conductive spacers such as butyl-metal or insulated spacers reduce heat loss and the potential for perimeter condensation. I.e.: warm edge spacer.

Choosing The Right Glazing

It may not be easy to decide which type of glazing is right for your windows. Improved sealed units will increase comfort and energy efficiency but it may be many years before their extra cost is repaid through energy savings.

If you are in doubt follow these rules:
Large north facing windows or very exposed windows should have improved sealed units.
If you customarily sit in front of a window, consider installing a high performance unit for increased comfort.
Standard double-glazing may provide adequate comfort and energy efficiency in mild climates especially in south facing windows.

Frame Materials

Since the frame can account for as much as 25% of the total window area, it should be at lest as well insulated as the glass. Several different frame types are available.

Solid Wood and Clad Wood

A solid wood frame is a good choice from an energy standpoint. The colour choices are unlimited but wood does not require regular repainting inside and outside.

Clad wood frames are protected on the exterior with a covered of prepainted aluminum or vinyl. Clad frames are more expensive than plain wood but eliminate exterior painting. Claddings must be well designed to prevent water from becoming trapped behind them.

Aluminum

Aluminum frames are durable and good designs are available for residential windows. Aluminum conducts heat rapidly. To prevent condensation and frost from forming on the frame, the frame and sash must be equipped with well-designed thermal breaks.

It is difficult to judge whether an aluminum frame is equipped with a good thermal break. One thing you can do is ask people who have lived with the brand you are considering whether they have experienced any condensation problems.

If a metal window frame has a CCMC number, it has passed the CSA
A-440 standard test for condensation resistance. Be particularly wary of inexpensive aluminum replacement windows.

Vinyl

Vinyl frames provide good insulation and do not require painting. However, some manufacturers reinforce the vinyl with metal, which can decrease the frames insulation value. Wood reinforcing is preferable.

Fibreglass

Fiberglass window frames are a recent innovation available from a limited number of custom manufacturers. Fibreglass frames will hold their shape permanently and will not warp, shrink, rot, bow, dent or twist.

Most Common Q & A’S

Do you have insul pane windows that fog up between the glass panes when the sun comes up in the morning?

Insulated glass that fogs up is an indication of glass failure. Over the years energy efficient glass has been perfected to compensate for nature’s elements such as hot and cold temperatures and direct sun and wind. Insul glass is made up of two pieces of glass sealed together with 0% relative humidity in-between giving clear vision with no fog during the cold weather. However, with aging some insulated glass will fail at the seal because of severe sun exposure. For example on a south elevation, continuous expansion and contraction takes place fracturing the seal and allowing moist air to get between the glass panes. During direct morning sunshine, this moisture shows on the outside glass panel leaving a foggy film, which is impossible to clean, therefore, replacement glass is the only answer when this happens.

If you are going to the expense and trouble of replacing windows, make energy efficiency one of your most important considerations.

A lot of energy dollars are blowing away in the wind. For savings and comfort, draft proofing is a good idea. Adequate air is required for combustions appliances and breathing, and to vent odours and moisture to the outdoors, but you don’t have to live in a sieve. Take charge by sealing off excessive air leakage, then provide adequate, minimum, controlled ventilation.

Start with the windows and doors. The right caulking material, properly applied can block drafts around trim. It may also be time to replace weather-stripping. Know which products can do the best job in each situation.

There are some major air leakage areas in the basement. After construction the sill plate can shrink away from the concrete foundation and leave you with a wind chill factor. Leakage in the header area wastes money and can make the floors upstairs chilly.

Let’s not forget the attic. Care should be taken to seal around all the openings in the attic floor, such as ceiling light fixtures, plumbing stacks, exhaust fans and chimney chases. Otherwise, warm moist air can escape into the attic, where it can condense and cause moisture damage. Before leaving the attic, remember to weather-strip the hatch and latch it snugly.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Extreme air sealing will make power ventilating a necessity. Care should be taken to enable all power exhaust systems to have adequate replacement air inlets.

Water Leak Emergencies - Stop The Possible Flood

Have you ever left your house for a period of time and wondered what would happen if the hot water tank was leaking or the toilet tank cracked or the dishwasher leaked.

At our home we had the personal experience with the latter two items. Luckily with the broken toilet tank we were home and could shut off the water.

On the occasion that the dishwasher leaked we were fast asleep upstairs. Normally we would have been unaware of the leak until morning and by then much damage would have occurred. However I awoke to the audible sound of an alarm going off. What was it you ask? The alarm was coming from the product called the Flood Stopper Valve, which had shut off the water to the entire house when the sensor was activated. Since the Flood Stopper main control panel was blinking zone # 3 I knew to look at the dishwasher. Upon removing the front panel I discovered that the ½” copper pipe feeding the dishwasher valve had come off allowing water to spray under the dishwasher thereby setting off the sensor and shutting off the main water supply.

This product was worth its weight in gold that night.

Electronic Air Cleaners

Even in the cleanest homes, air is filled with billions of undesirable particles. Most of these particles are so tiny that they are invisible to the eye.

Outdoor air entering the home carries airborne soil particles, industrial wastes, automobile exhaust, pollen and mold spores.

These are added to dust and other particles generated indoors from dead skin, mattresses, pillows, blankets, carpets, drapes, cooking smoke and grease, pets and if you have smokers tobacco smoke. These particles collect on and in furniture carpets and draperies causing discolouration and staining on walls and ceilings and forming greasy deposits on glass, windows and mirrors. These particles are what cause great discomfort to people sensitive to irritants such as dust, pollen and smoke.

The mechanical filter in most furnaces is capable of removing about 10 percent of these particles if it is kept clean. An electronic air cleaner installed in the ductwork of such a system will remove up to 95% of the pollutants.

With an electronic air cleaner, air passes through a pre-filter, which traps large particles of contaminants. It then enters a powerful electrical field where the remaining particles are positively charged. These pass through another electrical field consisting of negatively charged collecting cells which hold the contaminant particles while the newly cleansed air moves through and out into the home. Now you can breath fresh air.

Maintenance consists of cleaning away the trapped particles. Follow the recommendations of the manufacturer for cleaning.

Silencing Noisy Plumbing

A plumbing system may produce any number of noises – but it shouldn’t. Each noise tells you something about what is calling out for correction. You just have to interpret the sound to apply the cure.

A “chattering noise” when a faucet is turned on or off, can be most annoying, and may make you think that the whole system is about to come apart at the seams. It is not usually all that serious; the problem is likely within the faucet itself.

First, check to make sure that the faucet washer is tightly screwed to the stem. If the washer is worn, it should be replaced even though the faucet is not leaking. Also inspect the threads on the back stem for signs of wear. If the stem (after being screwed back into the faucet) can be moved up and down, there is a definite indication of thread wear. Either the stem or the entire faucet should be replaced.

Pipes “rattling”, as water passed through them, may not be fastened securely. If they are accessible (as in a basement or crawlspace), install additional clamps to fasten them firmly to the joists.

On the other hand, “a ticking sound” may indicate that a pipe is fastened too tightly – cold pipes will expand slightly as hot water enters them, causing this noise if there is not sufficient expansion room.
A “whistling noise” is caused when water under pressure must pass through a point of restriction. A common problem is with the toilet intake valve. If your toilet “whistles” as it is being refilled after flushing, try cutting down the flow by shutting the supply stop slightly (the supply stop is the valve below the toilet that governs the flow of water into the tank). Some toilet mechanisms have an adjusting screw on the intake valve itself to solve this problem.

“Water Hammer” is a loud, banging noise that occurs when a faucet is shut off quickly. Behind every fixture, there should be an air chamber which provides a cushion of air to absorb the force of the rushing wat3r – and the accompanying noise. There are many different types of air chambers, in addition to the simple pipe and cap type, but all work on the same principle. If the chamber becomes filled with water, its cushioning effect is compromised.

To “recharge” the air chambers, shut down the entire water supply system at the main valve, and completely drain the systems. Open all the faucets to allow air into the system, then close the faucets and turn on the main valve. If water hammer still persists, you may have to knock out a few walls to install new air chambers at the trouble spots.
While this may seem a drastic solution, it is probably preferable to risking a burst pipe because of the condition.

A possible alternative is to install a large air chamber at the main intake valve. Where there is no guarantee, this sometimes works to alleviate the problem.

Electrical Wiring Hint

Electrical wiring is installed by many homeowners by using exterior extension cords; for example when putting up festive lights.

Why not install permanent wiring?

Before the weather gets cold is the best time to do this type of installation. First locate the area where it would be best to have exterior receptacles to make festive light installation convenient... as well as your "EasyHeat" wires that will melt the snow off the edges of your roof, so there will never be 10 inches of ice in your gutters!

Purchase the required 14-2 exterior wire and boxes as per electrical code requirements. (Book available at your local Tim-Br-Mart store “Electrical Code Made Easy”) Follow the instructions to install wiring back to the electrical panel and don’t forget the G.F.I. (“Ground Fault Interceptor”).

NOTE: Before you start your project check with your local building permits office to see if a permit is required. ALSO: If you are not inclined to do the type of work yourself hire an electrician.

Basement finishing

The proper way to insulate and finish inside concrete walls is in the following fashion.

Identify the outside grade level, then transmit that to the inside of the concrete wall. Take that line and draw a line on the wall 6” above the grade line all the way along the interior concrete wall. This now becomes the height of your poly vapor seal – use 6 mil polyethylene. On this line spread a bead of acoustic adhesive available from your local building supply store in tube form. This adhesive will retain your 6 mil polyethylene to the concrete. The 6 mil polyethylene in a 10 foot width will adhere to the acoustic adhesive, go down the inside of the concrete wall and out onto the floor. This stops any moisture emanating from the concrete to the wood studs.

Build the stud walls 1 ½” shorter than the wall height. This allows the walls to stand up in position and you can screw them to the underside of your floor joists up against the concrete wall. Cut styrofoam or polyurethane foam blocks 1 ½” thick and position them every 2ft. along the bottom of the wall. Pound a 4” common nail (it doesn’t have to be a concrete nail) through the bottom plate and foam block and into the concrete, stopping when your hammer rings. The wall will remain in place being screwed at the top to the underside of the joist and nailed into the concrete floor.

Now, you are ready to prepare the wall for insulation. If there is any pony wall above the concrete, remove any polyvapor seal from this wall. Stack R12 insulation batts behind, lying on their side above the concrete wall and the joist above thus covering the poly wall section if it exists. Put insulation batts in green garbage bags making insulation pillows. Put in the joist header areas (where the joist runs over the plate to the outside joist fascia). Run insulation batts between the newly studded wall from the joist line to the floor.

Finally take the polyethylene vapor seal that is lying out on the floor (the excess of the 10ft width) and bring it up around the studded wall to the point that it will reach and staple in place. Staple another piece of polyethylene from the top area onto the underside of the joist 12” out from the studded wall bringing it down the wall to meet the polyethylene coming up from the floor. Overlap them and seal with acoustic adhesive. You have now totally encased the finished interior framing wall not allowing any moisture that may emit from the concrete to get into the wood fibre and or insulation causing a musty odour.

Proceed to drywall or panel. Now no moisture will ever get near a wood fibre. If there is ever a crack in the wall of floor, the moisture will run up against the polyethylene, run back in behind and out onto the floor and will be identified at the floor line rather than up in behind your panelling or drywall.

Revitalizing your kitchen cabinets

Your dark kitchen cabinets don't look new anymore and you would like to lighten up the colour to give your kitchen a modern look?

First let me say, that the process of changing your cabinet colour the easy way is not a fast way. First purchase a water based paint and varnish stripper such as 3M's Safest Stripper. Remove hardware from the doors and drawers. Pour a quantity of the stripper into a wallpaper water tray. Stand the door or drawer in the tray and brush on the paint and varnish stripper. Using a paint stripping pad ie. 3M brand remove all paint or varnish. After the stripping process rinse well with clear water and allow to dry. Next you will use a wood bleach (not laundry bleach). Wood bleach is a two part bleaching solution available at your specialty paint store or home centre. After the bleaching process of removing the dark stain, wash down with a trisodium phosphate solution (1 tablespoon trisodium phosphate in 1 quart warm water). Rinse well with clear water and allow to dry overnight. To finish, use a water-based urethane semi-gloss clear or you may want to use one of the new pastel semi-transparent colours.

Soundproofing plumbing pipes

What is the best way to soundproof ABS plumbing pipes?

Soundproofing plumbing pipes is usually overlooked during new home construction. Given the opportunity, I always insulate every walls inside the home on all levels using R12 or R14 fibreglass batting. No vapour barrier is required because you are only doing this for soundproofing reasons and not for energy efficency. This "extra" insulation provides a tremendous sound deadening effect to all rooms not just to eliminate water noises like flushing toilets but also to achieve greater privacy from room to room.

If your home is finished and you weren't lucky enough to be able to install insulation in your inside walls during construction, you can still make those drains and water pipes a lot more quiet but it's going to take more work.

Basic Steps:

1. Locate the wall cavity encasing the noisy pipes.

2. Using a nail and hammer or a good stud finder, locate the studs on either side of the noisy pipes.

3. Once you have located the studs, measure approximately 3/4" to 1" from cavity side to identify centre of studs, make a mark to identify the center of the stud.

4. Measure up from floor 12" and down from the ceiling 12" and make a mark.

5. Mark a line that runs from your mark a foot down from the ceiling to your mark a foot up from the floor along the entire center line of the stud on each side of the cavity.

6. Join all marks forming a rectangle on the wall. This identifies the stud opening that houses your noisy plumbing.

7. Using a straight edge, take a drywall knife and cut along all marks. Apply pressure as you are cutting through 1/2" of gypsum board. (if the wall is plaster, a drywall saw may be required)

8. Remove the piece of gypsum board revealing pipes behind wall.

9. Using R12 or R14 fill entire cavity with fibreglass insulation (split bats in half to go around noisy pipes).

10. Replace the same piece of drywall that you cut out and nail or screw it to the studs. Sand area along painted side of patch and drywall tape and fill.

NOTE: Drywall filler should extend 4" to 6" either side of seam, this will feather out edge before priming and painting.

Your house's Insulation (you could save lots of $$$$ on your gas bill!)

Check your house for poor insulation. Poorly insulated roofs, basement walls, floors over crawlspaces and outside walls allow a direct flow of heat to the outside. Insulation is like putting a giant sleeping bag around your house. Insulating materials are rated by their resistance to heat flow. The higher the rating or R value the better the material.

Start insulating in the attic and the basement to yield the greatest energy savings for money spent. The most commonly used types of insulation are blankets and batts, loose fill (hand poured or machine blown into place) or rigid insulation boards which are often used for basement walls.

Make sure the attic access hatch is insulated, tightly closed and weatherstripped. Since it is a large opening, a great deal of heat can readily escape into the attic.

Buy CSA approved foam pads to fit between cover plates and receptacles of electrical outlets. Turn off the power before installing them.

Moisture Building Up?

It never fails, folks. Around the end of September I start getting calls about condensation on windows, mold on the walls in the bedrooms, stains behind bedroom dressers, stains on ceilings and it goes on and on. Some homeowners stress the fact that they have just put in new windows; so why the moisture? Well let it be known you have tightened your home up a few notches so lets go back a few steps.

1. What have you done all summer long to vent you home i.e.: Basement or Crawl Space?

2. What improvements have you made to your home windows, doors, ventilation, siding, roofing, insulation etc.

3. What have you done to compensate for these changes in exhaust ventilation, heat recovery ventilation, continual flow furnace motors ? Oops! None of these? Not even crawlspace or basement ventilation ?

The moisture you are now fighting with in most cases has been with you all summer, locked in the basement or crawlspace waiting for you to start up the heating system. Incidentally this holds true for those of you who have radiant heat as well. Now, you’re heating air containing moisture, expanding it many times, and now it is looking for a way out of your home. So vent the crawlspace or basement with a Humidex System or use a bathroom fan controlled by a dehumidistat or open a window with your summer furnace blower activated or even use your range hood fan in the kitchen.

When you see signs of moisture you must start venting to reduce the relative humidity to a level below dew point. Purchase a humidity indicator to control moisture levels.

For information on this, call Resources Canada 1-800-387-2000 and order the book Consumers Guide to Keeping the Heat In. It’s Free!

So please, please, please don’t blame the moisture on your new windows, new siding, upgrade on your insulation or a recent renovation. If you or your contractor over looked the most important feature - ventilation. You have only yourself or your contractor to blame.